I'm in my mosquito net hat, relaxing near Icy Bay.

Because the outfitter screwed up so badly, Penny and I took over the kitchen for everyone to help us share utensils and food.

Lunchtime siesta with Al on the longest day. We had to do two days' paddling in one because the outfitter's portage never materialized.

Don and the guide had to rescue a boat that a careless paddler hadn't dragged up far enough. So much for keeping feet dry and avoiding hypothermia!

The hike searching for the promised portage and lake shortcut that never materialized.

A whale surfaced about 30 yards from us. Penny yelled at us that we should be at least 60 yards away. I told her to tell the whale!

The guide prepping the salmon that Don and another paddler begged from an Alaskan DNR boat collecting salmon heads to evaluate progress since the Valdez oil spill. We'd suffered a shortage of food and a double day of paddling the day before, so this feast was huge!

Don grilling on an open fire in a rock pit the group made because we had no grill.